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QA1 Shocks & Springs



QA1 Shocks & Springs Parts List
  • Front Strut #HAL-GR502 (Stocker Star "R" Series Drag Race Twin Tube)
  • Front Spring #HAL-15FB275 (275lb spring rate) I originally purchased these but they ended up being too loose.
    Front Spring #HAL-15FB300 (300lb spring rate) These are the ones that I ended up keeping on the car.
    Front Spring #HAL-15FB325 (325lb spring rate)
  • Rear Shock #HAL-TS703 (12 way Adj Twin Tube)
  • Stock Rear Springs
  • Spanner Wrenches & Thrust Bearing Kit #HAL-7888-110

Important notes
  • These shocks are 12-way adjustable. BUT the knob can be turned past 12 turns. YOU DO NOT want to turn the knob past 12 clockwise turns, doing so can damage the needle bearing inside the shock. Best thing to do is turn the knob counterclockwise as far as it will turn. This will be the #1 position which is the softest setting. Then you can turn the knob clockwise and start counting the turns.
  • When adjusting the springs, you can measure from the bottom of the shock tube threads to the bottom of the lock nut. When doing this a good rule of thumb is for every 1/2" of threads on the shock tube is equal to about 1" on the body of the car. I ended up counting the threads on each shock tube just to make sure that they were perfectly even once I was finished.
  • Adjuster Knob: The full counterclockwise position is considered position 1. To get to position 12 you would only need to turn the knob clockwise 11 clicks. So if you want a #7 setting then you would only turn the knob 6 clicks from the full counterclockwise position. Just remember there is no 0 position and that full counterclockwise is position 1.
  • FRONT STRUT adjustment settings: I set mine to about 6 for driving around on the street and then for racing I adjust them to 3.
  • REAR SHOCK adjustment settings: For this one your gonna wanna set them to 4 for normal street driving and then set them to about 7 for drag racing. Good luck trying to drive around on the street with them set on anything high, I thought I would be able to leave them at about 8 for street driving and it was BOUNCY AS HELL! It felt like I was driving around in a chopped spring rice rocket lol!
  • FRONT SPRINGS: As stated below, for about a 27" ride height on my car I ended up being about 5" from the bottom of the threads to the bottom of the lock nut, which can be noted in the picture below. I also counted 40 threads from the bottom of the lock nut to the bottom of the threads. This helped make sure that I was even on both sides.

FRONT STRUTS: Couple of notes about these shocks. The fronts have a fixed compression and adjustable rebound, as opposed to the Gen F shocks, which adjusts both at the same time. Adjustment of the shock is easy via a small knob mountedon the bottom of the shock tube. Ride height is set by adjusting a nut that sits below the spring. My advice is to get the thrust bearing kit which will make your life a whole lot easier! The bearing kit can be seen in the picture below where you have two washers with the thrustbearing that is sandwiched in-between the two washers.

REAR SHOCKS: These are 12-way adjustable which adjusts the compressionand rebound at the same time. Turning the knob counterclockwise is consideredthe 1 position which is the softest setting. 12 steps clockwise from thissetting would be the 12 position which is the hardest setting.

I had originally purchased the 275lb springs for the front but after I had a few issues with them that I didn't really care for so I decided to go with the 300lb springs instead. For one they were a pain in the ass to install, I had to crank the adjuster nut damn near all the way up the body of the shock just to get a 27" ride height. Then while driving around, the car felt way splashy in the front and I am a pretty tolerable person when it comes to intolerable mods, but these things were pretty ridiculous. Not to mention that my car has quite a bit of weight reduction in the front so I was surprised at the way these things performed. I ended upgoing with the 300lb springs which worked out way better and I honestly cannot notice a difference in traction between the two. The car still transfers weight and hooks just the same between the two springs but the 300lb springs definitely ride better than the 275lb springs.

I ended up purchasing new upper shock mounts from autozone since the old ones looked pretty worn out. The nice thing about the QA1's is that you don't need a spring compressor to install them. You simply install everything off the car and snug the spring up as much as possible by hand, then once they are installed on the vehicle you can then finish adjusting the spring up in order to get the ride height set. For about a 27" ride height on my car I ended up being about 5" from the bottom of the threads to the bottom of the lock nut, which can be noted in the picture below. I also counted 40 threads from the bottom of the lock nut to the bottom of the threads. This helped make sure that I was even on both sides.

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